MV BBC Nile in Southampton
Unloading Pisces.
A long way down by rope ladder
Trick in Ocean Village Marina
The Solent's Red Funnel Ferry
Pisces
Contessa 32 Sail No: 615
Wednesday, 29 June 2016
RMYC, Sandbanks, Poole, Dorset, UK. Wednesday 1 June 2016.
It was lovely to catch up with Helen and Richard in their gorgeous house in Fort Lauderdale for a couple of days. I hadn’t seen Helen since the year we had together in Australia in the 70s. Many thanks. Bordered a Virgin Atlantic flight for London on 21 May arriving back exactly a year to the day of my departure from Portland. Home for a few days and thanks to my neighbours Carlo and Fiona, Paul and Hannah and Suzanne for looking after things in West Stafford.. Pisces arrived into Southampton Western Dock 102 on Sunday night and I caught the train up to collector her on Monday. But the crane broke down so it was not until a wet and windy Tuesday morning that she was unloaded and I motored round to Ocean Village marina and met up with the Odessy, Trick and Braveheart crews in the Royal Southampton Yacht Club. Up at dawn raising sails and a quick but rather gloomy passage back to my mooring in Poole Harbour in a northwesterly force 5 to six. Phew, home at last.
My highlights:
Helen, Richard and Fizz in Fort Lauderdale.
MV BBC Nile in Southampton
Unloading Pisces.
A long way down by rope ladder
Trick in Ocean Village Marina
The Solent's Red Funnel Ferry
RMYC at the end of the trip
MV BBC Nile in Southampton
Unloading Pisces.
A long way down by rope ladder
Trick in Ocean Village Marina
The Solent's Red Funnel Ferry
Sunday, 29 May 2016
Crowne Bay marina, Charlotte Amelie, St Thomas, USVIs. Wednesday 18 May 2016.
After a rather uncomfortable few days in Red Hook as very hot and little breeze, I beat across Pilsbury Sound and inside Great Thatch Island back to Watermelon Bay. My favourite. Picked up a buoy close to the beach and great swim again. The next day I walked up to the ruins of Murphy’s Great House overlooking the bay and west to St Thomas (see http://stjohnhistoricalsociety.org/vol-x-no-6-march-2010-waterlemon-bay-at-the-turn-of-the-nineteenth-century-by-robin-swank/). Deer on the beach and more turtles and pelicans. I was due to arrive in Crowne Bay marina on Friday 13th to get ready for loading. However the idea of sailing on a Friday and the 13th and a full moon was too much. So I pulled the genny out and ambled back down St John’s and through Current Passage (well named) and into the Marina at Charlotte Amelie, the capital, on Thursday. Packed up Pisces with mixed feelings but looking forward to going home for a while. The MV BBC Nile docked just outside the marina entrance on Sunday and I was loaded on Tuesday evening at 17.30. All sails off and the backstay undone. Hauled aboard and into a cradle that was welded to the deck. I went back on to reconnect the backstay and it was all over. I checked into the Island Beachcomber Hotel for the night and took a flight on the 18th May to Fort Lauderdale while MV BBC Nile set sail for Southampton.
My highlights:
Watermelon Bay
Murphy's Great House ruins.
Land crabs.
Dingy and deer on the beach.
Sailing down to St Thomas
At it again!
Crowne Bay Marina
MV BBC Nile
Loading Pisces
Island Beachcomber Hotel
American Yacht Harbor, Red Hook, St Thomas, USVIs. Sunday 8 May 2016.
Tuesday 26 April sailed back down Sir Francis Drake Channel to Nanny Cay for a few days rest, swimming and hoofing about with friends from Viva and AWOL. The marina was full with ARC boats readying for the ARC Europe and ARC US starting on 7 May so I slipped my berth on Sunday 1 May and picked up a buoy in Sopers Hole, Tortola for the night. Dingyed ashore and checked out of the BVIs. Super onboard but had to move at 06.00 because of a close encounter with a neighbouring boat in a dead calm. No harm done but I left early and motored down through the Narrows and anchored off the channel in Cruz Bay. Rowed over and checked Pisces in through customs and immigration. Thankfully a simple process. Then back up the St John’s national park and had a great night and morning in Hawknest Bay off a gorgeous beach. Snorkelled to clean my propeller and was assisted by two very inquisitive blue parrotfish. Watched a large old turtle amble about on the surface a few yards from the boat while a pair of magnificent frigate birds soared above. Fabulous. Motored again across to St Thomas were I had booked a berth in the American Yacht Harbor marina for a week to start preparing for my return journey on the cargo ship MV BBC Nile around 17 May. Rather exposed berth next to the fuel dock and Red Hook a much brasher place than Nanny Cay. I had to spend $200 to buy an adapter to connect my shore power (other marinas supplied them) and felt a bit exposed and wary for a few days then settled in. Several restaurants on the dock, a good supermarket, ATM and next to the ferry dock, buses and taxis.
Thursday 5 May I took a ferry from Red Hook back to West End (Sopers Hole) on Tortola and shared a taxi back to Nanny Cay. I had been invited to the ARC farewell dinner and could not resist a party and goodbye to my sailing friends. Met up with the guys from Natalie II, my next door neighbour in Las Palmas before the Atlantic crossing. Petra and her crew on Viva were off to the US via Bermuda then up to Nova Scotia to attempt the Northwest passage. So I felt rather tame having taken the soft option to ship Pisces back. No regrets, it is a long way back in a little boat and the ARC Europe would not accept boats under 40 feet. I treated myself to another hotel room in the Nanny Cay Hotel and, after goodbyes in the morning, headed back to West End. My ferry had broken down and no refund for my return ticket. Had to buy a new one and then told that my visa to go back to the US was not valid (but I had already used it twice). After much kerfuffal I was allowed on so arrived back in Red Hook via Cruz Bay in the afternoon. Met up with Mila and Joan for a drink and pizza as they are also shipping their lovely Baltic 52 back to Southampton.
My highlights:
Nanny Cay marina (again)
ARC Europe and USA getting ready to leave.
Drenched in a white out on the way to Cruz Bay. Fortunately had an Otis Spunkmeyers giant cinnamon while so all was not lost!
Cruz Bay to check Pisces into the USVIs
Red Hook, Molly Malones and iguana
World record Blue Marlin at 1450 pounds
Saturday, 7 May 2016
Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, BVIs. Tuesday 26 April 2016.
My 63rd birthday dawned bright and sunny. Took the Road Town Fast ferry over to Anegada, about 20 kms north east of Spanish Town, and checked into the Anegada Reef Hotel. A walk along the beach past the Wonky Dog to Neptune’s Treasure for an early Carib and lime. Hired an open taxi and journey around the west side of the island on the dirt roads to Cow Wreck Bay for a swim, drinks and lunch. Met up with a group celebrating another birthday and played darts and pool in the beach bar (lost). Back to the hotel for a siesta, then a sundowner at the bar and dinner of 2 pound lobster barbecued on the beach and met up with yet another group celebrating a birthday. Lots of messages from family and friends during the day so felt well looked after.
Anchorage and Carib with a hat.
Cow Wreck Beach
Taxi to Loblolly Bay
BBQ 50 gallon drums (for the lobsters).
Saturday, 30 April 2016
Spanish Harbor, Virgin Gorda, BVIs. Saturday 23 April 2016.
Departed Nanny Cay marina on Sunday 10 April into Sir Francis Drake Channel, close hauled across to Salt Island and anchored off the Settlement and a deserted beach. Snorkeled ashore and walked over to the salt pond with a few goats. Monday up the channel passed Cooper Island to seaward and the Dogs to port to the leeward side of Virgin Gorda. Good anchorage in Long Bay under Mountain point.
Tuesday motored past Necker Island, around Mosquito Island and through the reefs to Gorda Sound and picked up a buoy off Vixen Point. Dingyed around the point to say hello to Liam and Liz on Odessy. I last saw them in November in Las Palmas. Ashore to the Sand Box Cafe expecting to get a drink and supper but looked half derelict and only one guy serving drinks with no food. Had a good sundowner though and supper on board again. Early morning swim to Prickly Bay beach then over to Bitter End for breakfast in the lovely Yacht Club. To Saba Island for the Cruising Association (CA) bash. About 30 of us from all over congregated for lunch organised by Chris Lloyd, the local Honorary Local Assistant (HLA) and Liam. Great lunch overlooking Eustatia Sound and Bitter End. Back for a siesta then ashore at dusk for a BBQ on the beach until late.
Bright morning on 14 April with light airs so motored all the way passed the Dogs and the north of Tortola to Cane Garden Bay. Ashore for a walk around the town and a rum punch at De Wedding Bar and Restaurant watching the pelicans diving off the reef. Back along the sand to watch the sun go down behind Jost Van Dyke Island and CA dinner and dancing at Myeers by the beach. Magic.
Lazy sleep in listening to the cocks crowing and gulls crying until too hot to be in the boat so swim, then ashore. Coffee in Quitos by the dingy dock and emails which turned into early lunch. Met up with Michael, a lone sailor on Misty. Supper at Myeers again, then on to Quito's to listen to the man play (Quito Rhymer and The Edge) and back to watch the stars with a new iPad app, Sky Guide, very clever. Early morning swim then took a shower at Myeers in the cafe area with rather loose bamboo screens. Quite a joke with the bar girls!
A few provisions from Bobby's and departed before lunch for the short trip over to Little Jost Van Dyke. Dingyed over to Sandy spit and walked around the island (not a great distance). Watch the antics of a super yacht called 'Far Enough' with a huge water slide and its 36 foot tender with three 300hp outboards called 'Too Far'. Dinner on board then over to Spanish friends on a beautiful Brava 50 for drinks. Back late and more star gazing, able to identify the Southern Cross and the North Star!
Motored around to Great Bay on Jost Van Dyke for checking out of BVI customs. Expensive breakfast in Corsairs run by rather surly Americans but two Bananaquit birds (official bird on the Virgin Islands) kept me entertained. Then across to Cruz Bay in St John's, USVIs to clear into customs. Around passed the resort on Caneel Bay to Trunk Bay. Picked up a buoy inside Johnson Reef and snorkeled around Trunk Cay seeing turtles and a manta ray. No-one else in the bay. Monday 18 April.
Rolly breakfast so set off early for the short trip around Mary Point on St John's and through the Narrows with Great Thatch Island (BVIs) a couple of cables to Port. Around Angel Point and into Watermelon Bay picking up a NPS (National Park Service) buoy behind Watermelon Cay. Paid the $26 at the floating pay station and lovely walk to see the ruins of the Annaberg Sugar Mill. Boiling rooms, rum distillery and slave quarters. Magic snorkel around Watermelon Cay in the early evening when no-one around. Saw many types of coral, parrot fish, a sting ray, sergeant major fish, blue tang, foureye butterfish, green back turtles and many more. Curry for supper and a quiet night with no stars as much cloud cover.
Hot morning and motor sailed around the east of St Johns and into Coral Bay then across and found an anchorage (now outside the National Park) at the outer end of Coral Harbor in 7m on sand. What a weird place. Many good boats but many old wrecks cheek by jowl. Ramshackle dock and old cars and detritus all around. Walked along a path to the road to find Pickles Deli closed but the Love City Market open for beer and rum. Took a bus into Cruz Bay and back to Coral Harbor and a walk to other way revealed the old Morovian Church restored from the slave times and a cluster of shops based around 'Skinny Legs' bar. Friendly and busy in a scruffy way and began to like the place after all. After a Virgin Summer beer back to the boat around around Rams Head into Salt Pond Bay and picked up a NPS buoy tucked into the beach behind some rocks. Pasta supper and calm night.
Windy and overcast morning but sun came out and walked around the salt pond to the windward side of Rams Head. Beat to round the eastern tip of St Johns in 20 knots and a short sea so pleased to be sailing down wind and picked up a buoy in Sopers Hole, Totola. Back in the BVIs. Shower at the marina and Pussers Rum at the bar. Scaramouche was fully booked and looked a bit posh so over to 'Fish'n Lime' for an excellent sushi and grilled tuna. Friday 22 April 2016. Woken at 06.15 by the first ferry. Breakfast in D'Best Cup and a beat up the Sir Francis Drake Channel to Trellis Bay for the full moon party. But the bay was full of catamarans, the sky completely overcast and the wind onshore. So plan B. Up the Little Camanoe passage with rocks close by on both sides. Then into Lee Bay for the night. Just one other boat and reminiscent of Brittany with the swell blowing into the rock caves on either side. More swell made the anchorage uncomfortable but a spectacular thunder storm kept the boat in the bay until lunchtime. Then across to the Virgin Gorda Marina in Spanish Harbor. Interesting entrance around seas breaking on the reef but all quiet and convenient in the marina. Shower for the first time in a while and walked into town but expensive and empty restaurants so back to the Bath and Turtle Tavern for supper.
My highlights:
Salt Island
Long Bay
Necker Island
Mosquito Island
Vixen Point
Bitter End
Little Jost Van Dyke, Too Far
Far Enough
Sandy Cay
Great Bay, Jost Van Dyke.
Cruz Bay
Watermelon Bay
Annaberg Sugar Mill
Coral Harbor
Tuesday motored past Necker Island, around Mosquito Island and through the reefs to Gorda Sound and picked up a buoy off Vixen Point. Dingyed around the point to say hello to Liam and Liz on Odessy. I last saw them in November in Las Palmas. Ashore to the Sand Box Cafe expecting to get a drink and supper but looked half derelict and only one guy serving drinks with no food. Had a good sundowner though and supper on board again. Early morning swim to Prickly Bay beach then over to Bitter End for breakfast in the lovely Yacht Club. To Saba Island for the Cruising Association (CA) bash. About 30 of us from all over congregated for lunch organised by Chris Lloyd, the local Honorary Local Assistant (HLA) and Liam. Great lunch overlooking Eustatia Sound and Bitter End. Back for a siesta then ashore at dusk for a BBQ on the beach until late.
Bright morning on 14 April with light airs so motored all the way passed the Dogs and the north of Tortola to Cane Garden Bay. Ashore for a walk around the town and a rum punch at De Wedding Bar and Restaurant watching the pelicans diving off the reef. Back along the sand to watch the sun go down behind Jost Van Dyke Island and CA dinner and dancing at Myeers by the beach. Magic.
Lazy sleep in listening to the cocks crowing and gulls crying until too hot to be in the boat so swim, then ashore. Coffee in Quitos by the dingy dock and emails which turned into early lunch. Met up with Michael, a lone sailor on Misty. Supper at Myeers again, then on to Quito's to listen to the man play (Quito Rhymer and The Edge) and back to watch the stars with a new iPad app, Sky Guide, very clever. Early morning swim then took a shower at Myeers in the cafe area with rather loose bamboo screens. Quite a joke with the bar girls!
A few provisions from Bobby's and departed before lunch for the short trip over to Little Jost Van Dyke. Dingyed over to Sandy spit and walked around the island (not a great distance). Watch the antics of a super yacht called 'Far Enough' with a huge water slide and its 36 foot tender with three 300hp outboards called 'Too Far'. Dinner on board then over to Spanish friends on a beautiful Brava 50 for drinks. Back late and more star gazing, able to identify the Southern Cross and the North Star!
Motored around to Great Bay on Jost Van Dyke for checking out of BVI customs. Expensive breakfast in Corsairs run by rather surly Americans but two Bananaquit birds (official bird on the Virgin Islands) kept me entertained. Then across to Cruz Bay in St John's, USVIs to clear into customs. Around passed the resort on Caneel Bay to Trunk Bay. Picked up a buoy inside Johnson Reef and snorkeled around Trunk Cay seeing turtles and a manta ray. No-one else in the bay. Monday 18 April.
Rolly breakfast so set off early for the short trip around Mary Point on St John's and through the Narrows with Great Thatch Island (BVIs) a couple of cables to Port. Around Angel Point and into Watermelon Bay picking up a NPS (National Park Service) buoy behind Watermelon Cay. Paid the $26 at the floating pay station and lovely walk to see the ruins of the Annaberg Sugar Mill. Boiling rooms, rum distillery and slave quarters. Magic snorkel around Watermelon Cay in the early evening when no-one around. Saw many types of coral, parrot fish, a sting ray, sergeant major fish, blue tang, foureye butterfish, green back turtles and many more. Curry for supper and a quiet night with no stars as much cloud cover.
Hot morning and motor sailed around the east of St Johns and into Coral Bay then across and found an anchorage (now outside the National Park) at the outer end of Coral Harbor in 7m on sand. What a weird place. Many good boats but many old wrecks cheek by jowl. Ramshackle dock and old cars and detritus all around. Walked along a path to the road to find Pickles Deli closed but the Love City Market open for beer and rum. Took a bus into Cruz Bay and back to Coral Harbor and a walk to other way revealed the old Morovian Church restored from the slave times and a cluster of shops based around 'Skinny Legs' bar. Friendly and busy in a scruffy way and began to like the place after all. After a Virgin Summer beer back to the boat around around Rams Head into Salt Pond Bay and picked up a NPS buoy tucked into the beach behind some rocks. Pasta supper and calm night.
Windy and overcast morning but sun came out and walked around the salt pond to the windward side of Rams Head. Beat to round the eastern tip of St Johns in 20 knots and a short sea so pleased to be sailing down wind and picked up a buoy in Sopers Hole, Totola. Back in the BVIs. Shower at the marina and Pussers Rum at the bar. Scaramouche was fully booked and looked a bit posh so over to 'Fish'n Lime' for an excellent sushi and grilled tuna. Friday 22 April 2016. Woken at 06.15 by the first ferry. Breakfast in D'Best Cup and a beat up the Sir Francis Drake Channel to Trellis Bay for the full moon party. But the bay was full of catamarans, the sky completely overcast and the wind onshore. So plan B. Up the Little Camanoe passage with rocks close by on both sides. Then into Lee Bay for the night. Just one other boat and reminiscent of Brittany with the swell blowing into the rock caves on either side. More swell made the anchorage uncomfortable but a spectacular thunder storm kept the boat in the bay until lunchtime. Then across to the Virgin Gorda Marina in Spanish Harbor. Interesting entrance around seas breaking on the reef but all quiet and convenient in the marina. Shower for the first time in a while and walked into town but expensive and empty restaurants so back to the Bath and Turtle Tavern for supper.
Nanny Cay
Salt Island
Long Bay
Mosquito Island
Saba Island for lunch
The CA gang at Sandbox Beach
Cane Garden Bay
De Wedding Bar and Resturant
Cruz Bay
Annaberg Sugar Mill
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